So the Solarbotics GM-2 would work, if I could add one more reduction stage to it. But what kind of reduction? Gears, unfortunately, are neither cheap to buy (as I found out on Pololu and other web sites) nor trivial to make. Chain drives tend to be greasy, and besides, I have neither sprockets, nor drive chain. Friction wheels might be a possibility, but they require fairly heavy pressure to work well. Or I could use a belt drive, if I could find some sheaves.
I didn't have far to look: Pololu has sheave kits from Tamiya, and with their 70140 kit, I could rig a double belt drive with almost a 3:1 reduction, and still have enough parts left over for either a double-belt 2:1, or 2 stages of single-belt 2:1.
So I took an ordinary 5 1/4" drive-bay blank-out plate, and added a block of 1x2 poplar, to give it enough thickness to support the piece of Plastruct tubing that would be my main drive shaft bearing. The drive shaft is .081" brass rod.
I mounted the motor on the blank-out plate, with a thin foam pad to try and suppress some of the noise, poking its shaft through a hole in the pad and the plate. I found a double bushing that would snugly fit a 4-40 machine screw, mounted a pair of 11mm sheaves on it, and screwed it to the end of the motor shaft.
Finding another double bushing, one that would snugly fit the driveshaft, I mounted the pair of 30mm sheaves on it, mounted it on the end of the drive shaft, and crushed the end of the shaft slightly, so that it wouldn't come loose. I also added a single bushing of the same hole size, to help keep the shaft from sliding out the back.
The belt stock that comes with the Tamiya sheave kit looks to be little more than common rubber band stock; this wouldn't hold up inside a computer case. So I used large, skinny O-rings. In fact, after "ballparking" the size of O-ring I needed, I used the O-rings themselves to figure out where to put the motor.

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Since case fans normally tap the 12V bus of a drive power cable for their power, I'd do the same thing, with a simple 5VDC regulator to cut the voltage down, and a .1 microFarad capacitor to absorb any electrical noise generated by the motor.
Then I took some more of the Plastruct tubing, and made an outer shaft to match the drive shaft in the earlier version This done, I did a test fitting, so that I could cut the drive shaft to length, and figure out how to mount the drive unit.
After cutting everything to length, I hammered a flat spot in the drive shaft, so that the outer shaft would have something to grip, drilled and tapped the mounting bracket I'd marked up at the test-fitting (for 2 6-32 screws to go in drive mounting holes in the bay), and screwed the modified angle bracket to the end of the piece of poplar (with more craft foam to absorb as much noise as I can).

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The key (more craft foam, with a shank made of Plastruct tubing and brass tubing) and the front bezel (another drive bay blank-out plate, also with a piece of poplar mounted on it), are from the Mk. I version; note that instead of a "DELL DIMENSION XPS D300," it is a "DULL DEMENTED XPS D300" Just as the whole idea is inspired by On the Fastrack, "DULL" is a nod to the computer company that figured prominently in a Get Fuzzy storyline.
I suppose that if I found I could still hear the GM-2, with the case closed up, over the case fans and hard drive, I could always add a simple switch that would cut off power to the motor if the key was out. I'd have to drill out the block on the back of the bezel, to accept some sort of feeler.
Any questions?
(And to the moderator who removed the spam posting I saw the other day, THANKS!)
James H. H. Lampert
Professional Dilettante